FAQ

Some sizing guidelines on the basis of height are offered on the sizing and geometry page, which should put you in the right ball park.

However, it is virtually impossible to correctly size someone for a frame without having detailed knowledge of that person’s riding preferences and a whole host of physical attributes. This process is one best achieved by consulting either a Singular dealer or an experienced bike-fitter in your area. Similarly for ‘what stem length/bar width/crank length etc do I need?’ - this is best determined as part of the fitting process.

As a general rule of thumb though - if you go with the size guidelines you will then be able to find a combination of stem, bar and saddle position which will make that size for you. If you'd like to talk it through with us or you're stuck between sizes just get in touch. 

 

All About EBBs

What are they and why do Singulars use them? 

The Eccentric Bottom Bracket (EBB) is a fairly simple device, long used in tandems to tension the timing chain connecting the front and rear sets of cranks. 

The frame’s bottom bracket shell is oversized and fitted with an insert which has the bottom bracket thread milled off centre. Therefore rotating the insert allows you to alter the position of the crank and tension the chain.

An added and possibly even greater benefit for most riders is the flexibility it gives you to adjust the crank position when swapping between different size wheels. All our frames are designed to give a wide range of flexibility in the wheel size used. If swapping from say a 29x2.2" tyre on a Peregrine to say a 27.5x2" on most bikes this will end up with the cranks being far too close to the ground. The EBB allows you to adjust for this (+/- 12mm) so that you won't get so many pedal strikes and the bike still handles nicely. 

Aren't EBB's known for having issues?

EBB’s have long been used in tandems and have proven to be a functional and reliable system. Our EBB inserts are CNC milled to our specifications in Taiwan. Singulars have used them in over 1500 frames now and rarely have any issues been encountered. Where they have they are easily solved with correct assembly and/or a bit of cleaning and greasing. Like any metal on metal part over time grease can become displaced and creaks can develop. This is easily solved by removing a crank arm, sliding the whole EBB unit out, cleaning, greasing and popping it back in – a 5 minute job, see below for details.

 

What bottom bracket can I fit to an EBB? 

The EBB uses the British threaded 68mm wide bottom bracket standard. It will accept any bottom bracket and crank made to that specification. Correct initial installation of the EBB is essential to its reliable long term function. The inside of the EBB shell should be given a thin layer of heavy grease. The insert should rotate by hand to allow correct tensioning of the chain. If it is a little snug then a 5mm allen key can be inserted in the hole in the insert, then the cranks turned to lever against the allen key and rotate the whole assembly. The set screws on the bottom of the shell should then be torqued to between 4 and 6 NM – do not over-tighten as it can deform the shell.

 

What do I need to do to maintain the EBB?

As with any metal on metal component, it is necessary to perform some regular maintenance to ensure continuing smooth and reliable function. We recommend periodically removing the ebb from the frame to clean and lubricate.

This is done by removing one crank-arm (and also a cup if external type bb) and sliding it out – if it’s a bit stuck, rotating, spraying some penetrating lube and a few taps with a rubber mallet may be required to get it out. Thoroughly clean the ebb and inside the shell. Remove the ebb bolts completely and clean and grease. Then cover the interior of the shell and the ebb with a thin layer of grease and re-assemble. Tension the chain (or just put the ebb in the desired position if using a derailleur) and torque the bolts to 4-6nm. The regularity with which this should need doing depends very much on the conditions you ride in.

How do I un-stick a stuck EBB?

If you've been naughty and not given your EBB the little loving it needs, it's possible that over time the grease gets washed out, some grit gets in, some oxidisation happens and the EBB gets stuck. After you've finished berating yourself for being an idiot and letting it get like that, here's how you can get it moving again. 

1. Remove the seatpost and EBB screws and spray a penetrating oil (I like Plusgas) liberally in there and anywhere else it seems like it can get to the inside of the BB shell - but down the seat tube is the big one. Leave it to rest for a while, ideally up to 24 hours. 
2. Remove the cranks - if you are using an external type BB leave the cups in there for the moment. I find it's easiest in terms of handling the frame to also remove the wheels. 
3. First try to turn the EBB by turning the BB cups as if you were tightening them. A longer lever is your friend. Another method for applying torque to the insert is to leave the cranks on, and try to turn them while using a rod (or allen key) in the EBB adjusting hole to brace against the crankarm/spider. Wrap some tape or a rag around the crank to protect the point it contacts the rod. Then try to turn - just a little bit in bot directions. 
4. As soon as you have the EBB rotating even slightly, then you can tap it from the side with a mallet. If it is particularly stuck, resting the frame on its side on the floor or a large bench, with the downtube and seat tube well supported by blocks of wood with some cloths to prevent marring the frame, then use a rubber or vinyl mallet to try to start to knock the EBB out sideways. You'll need to hit it firmly, but do NOT hit it so hard you could damage the frame - if it's that bad skip to step 7. 
5. As soon as you get a bit of sideways movement, knock it back in and try to get a bit out the other side. At this point remove at least one of the BB cups if you've left them in up to now. 
6. Alternate sideways knocking and rotating with more application of lubricant and it will come out. 
7. Failing all of this if it's truly stuck and has been neglected for years it can be cut out and a new EBB fitted. Consult your friendly LBS, a Singular dealer, or Singular directly if you get to this point. 
8. Once it's all out, give everything a good clean up - it is likely there will be some oxidisation on the insert and the inside of the shell. Use some emery cloth to clean this up nicely, then grease everything thoroughly and put it back together. 

Suppliers

Where are your Steel frames made?

Our frames are designed in the UK.  The steel frames are made by a family owned and operated factory in Taiwan of over 30 years standing. They are specialists in the production of steel frames only and produce high end frames for many well known brands.

What about the Titanium ones?

Similarly, our titanium frames, forks and parts are designed here in the UK and fabricated by a specialist titanium builder in China. 

Are any other colours or finishes available?

All of our standard production frames are offered in one colour scheme only per batch. However, we now have a 'custom colour' option which is +£250 for a single colour (Swift and Gryphon) or +£350 for two colour (Peregrine) - very high quality finish, painted in the UK. Delivery time is an additional 2-3 weeks. We currently only offer the custom paint service from our UK location.  

For our custom Ti frames we are now able to offer custom anodised and painted finishes - whether within the standard Singular schema or something totally different - let's talk! 

Replacement downtube decals and headbadges are also available should you wish to arrange your own re-finishing. Please see the parts page or contact us for further details.